I’m still cheesing from my surf session this morning. I had so much fun that I stayed an extra hour and sun burn’d my back. So I better immortalize the memory of my surf session so I’ll have some good memories to look back to when I’m all wrinkly.
I woke up at 4:55 am to get ready for the session. Friday is trash day and you gotta leave it out on the street early a.f. because the garbage truck can come at any moment after like 5.15am.1 Doesn't bother me though, I wake up early anyways. I have all these great sleep habit routines, such as turning off my computer at 8pm. I went cold turkey on my melatonin, making me now 100% drug free!
So I walked my dog in this beautiful gated community where there's no community.2 Afterwards I drove 10 minutes to my epic beach break. We had glassy, crystal-clear water with small waves that were perfect little barrels. I ran into a bunch of my surf buddies; all had a big grin on their face.
I got shacked on my first wave. A couple of years ago, I thought my surfing career was over and I never would get to experience the joy of a barrel due to my repetitive strain injury.3 Now I'm fitter than ever, getting barreled all the time. Life is good.
I have one big goal in surfing at the moment, and that is to become adept at back side barrels. Or really, just to get one at all. Opening up the door to twice as many waves where I can get pitted would be notbad.jpg. I made some big progress today, I felt very comfortable dropping into the pigdog and with a little bit of adjustments on positioning I think I'll be behind the blue curtain when I go left.
Cheers to the good life.
- And you can't leave it out at night because the wildlife will rip your trashbag to shreds [↩]
- The project is stalled for legal reasons, so my girlfriend and I have access to this wonderful private nature trail. [↩]
- I hadn't learned how to time it at that point when I quit surfing. It's a new thing. [↩]