Very Secure

Surfing Localism

Today I was nearly assaulted while surfing the break five minutes walking distance from where I reside. The fight began shortly after I unwittingly found myself next to a surfer gang. I paddled for the same wave as someone else. I conceded the wave, but apparently even considering going for the wave was a crime and the surfer's buddy started cursing me out. The pack of 3-4 surfers told me to leave the area.

I held my ground water. While I respect the lineup hierarchy, I'm not about to leave a break because some punks tell me to. One of the brazen shitwads paddled up to me and started splashing at me while saying something like, "Get the hell out of here, I already told you to leave." I told him to go fuck himself and in response he got off his board and began to swim at me.

He grabbed my surf board and told me he was going to rip out my fins and then attempted to do so. I was wondering whether I was going to have to go to blows with him. But I wasn't going to be the one to start an aquatic fist fight. I just stared and cursed at him as he tried to pull the fins out of my board. I'm not sure why he thought he was going to be successful - most fins are screwed on tightly and mine are no exception.

After the cunt gave up trying to pull my fins out, I slightly distanced myself from the gang. They were chatting and didn't notice when the current pulled them out of the spot they were previously attempting to defend. So I enjoyed quite a few great waves right where I had originally wanted to surf.

After the session I discussed the events with taxi-driver-turned-amigo over lunch. He said I should have gone and gotten a machete + raised a gang myself and waited for the punks on the beach. While this sounds fun, unfortunately I do not have time to get myself involved in surfer territory wars.

One Response to “Surfing Localism”

  1. [...] my best to date "on day" surfing; I managed to sneak my way into 3 front side barrels whilst in a crowded lineup. During the large swell I had two sessions where I managed to avoid being held down. But the last [...]

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